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Why is Cyprus divided? Because intercommunal conflict in the 1960s was followed in 1974 by a coup backed by the military junta then ruling Greece and a Turkish military intervention. Since then the island has held four separate administrations, and only one of them is recognised by the international community.
It is one of the more complicated territorial situations anywhere in the world, and this guide explains it simply.
Easier to grasp on the ground. Join a Nicosia tour on Viator or a guided day on GetYourGuide and see the buffer zone with someone who knows it.
Divided Cyprus at a Glance
- Recognised state: the Republic of Cyprus, in the south, an EU member since 2004.
- Year of the division: 1974, with crossings open since 2003.
- For visitors: crossing is routine, and day to day life in the south is entirely normal.
- Where you see it: Nicosia, where the buffer zone runs through the old city.
How Many Countries Are on Cyprus?
People expect the answer to be one or two. It depends entirely on what you count. There is one recognised state, one recognised by a single country, a UN administered zone and two pieces of the United Kingdom. For the longer story, see our history of Cyprus, and for the identity question, is Cyprus Greek.
Who Controls What?
- The Republic of Cyprus: the internationally recognised state, in effective control of roughly 59 percent of the island, the southern portion. An EU member since 2004 and the government recognised by every country except one.
- The Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus: declared in 1983, covering roughly 36 percent in the north. Recognised only by Turkey. It has its own government and administration and depends heavily on Turkey economically, politically and militarily.
- The United Nations Buffer Zone: around 4 percent of the island, running 180 kilometres coast to coast and straight through Nicosia. Administered by UNFICYP, which has been here since 1964 and is one of the longest running peacekeeping operations in UN history.
- The British Sovereign Base Areas: Akrotiri and Dhekelia, around 3 percent of the island. These are British Overseas Territory, they report directly to the UK Ministry of Defence, and British law applies inside them. Greek Cypriots, Turkish Cypriots and British citizens all live within their boundaries.
How Did It Happen?
In four steps: independence, the 1960s, 1974 and what followed.
Independence, 1960
Cyprus became independent from Britain on 16 August 1960 after years of struggle. The settlement came with conditions. A Treaty of Guarantee named Greece, Turkey and the United Kingdom as guarantor powers, and Britain retained the two base areas as a condition of granting independence. The constitution divided power between the Greek Cypriot majority and the Turkish Cypriot minority. It proved difficult to operate almost immediately.
The 1960s
Intercommunal violence broke out in December 1963. A buffer zone was first drawn in Nicosia in those final days of the year, and UN peacekeepers arrived in 1964. Turkish Cypriots withdrew from government institutions and the constitutional settlement effectively stopped functioning.
1974
The decisive year. In July, a coup backed by the military junta then ruling Greece overthrew President Makarios, aiming at union with Greece. Turkey launched a military operation on 20 July, citing its rights as a guarantor power under the 1960 treaties.
The terminology here is itself contested. Greek Cypriots and most international bodies describe it as an invasion and occupation. Turkey and Turkish Cypriots describe it as an intervention or peace operation. Which words a source uses usually tells you its position.
The island was partitioned along what became the current line. Roughly 160,000 Greek Cypriots were displaced from the north and around 45,000 Turkish Cypriots moved northwards. The buffer zone was extended across the island after the ceasefire of 16 August.
Since Then
The north declared itself the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus in 1983. The UN Security Council called the declaration invalid and no state other than Turkey has recognised it. Repeated negotiations have failed to produce a settlement. The Annan Plan went to referendum in 2004, accepted in the north and rejected in the south. Crossings opened in 2003 and are now routine. The Republic of Cyprus joined the EU in 2004, and EU law is suspended in the north pending a settlement.
Why Is Cyprus Not in NATO?
This is a common point of confusion, particularly since Britain runs two military bases here and both Greece and Turkey are NATO members. Cyprus is not a NATO member. Accession requires unanimous agreement from existing members, and Turkey has not supported it. The question resurfaces periodically and the obstacle has not changed.
The British bases remain strategically significant regardless. RAF Akrotiri has been used for operations across the Middle East, and the island’s position 100 kilometres from Syria and 65 from Turkey explains a great deal about why Britain kept them.
Why Is Cyprus in the EU but Not in Schengen?
Because of the division. Cyprus joined the EU in 2004 and is not part of the Schengen area, which means passport checks still apply when arriving from other EU countries. The division is the main reason this has not been resolved, since Schengen membership would require settling what the external border actually is. Our guide to whether Cyprus is in Schengen covers where accession stands.
Can You Cross to the North?
Yes, and it is straightforward and routine. Several crossing points operate, including on foot at Ledra Street in the middle of Nicosia, which takes a few minutes with a passport. If you would rather not go alone, guided Nicosia tours are on Klook or try Viator.
Hire cars from the south are generally not insured in the north, and separate cover is bought at the crossing. Requirements change, so check before you go. Our Nicosia guide covers visiting the divided capital, and getting around Cyprus covers the driving side. If you are comparing hire cars for the south, start with DiscoverCars, and read the cross-border terms before you book.
What Does the Division Feel Like on the Ground?
Less dramatic than it sounds. Life in the south is entirely normal European life, and the division only becomes visible in Nicosia, where the buffer zone runs through the old city and streets simply stop. Parts of the buffer zone have been untouched by people for fifty years and have quietly become a haven for wildlife, which is one of the stranger side effects of the whole situation.
This remains a live political question with strongly held views on every side. Visitors are generally better served listening than offering opinions.
Planning Your Trip
The map shows current hotel prices across Cyprus for your dates.
Hotels across Cyprus
Staying in the capital to cross the line on foot? Compare Nicosia hotels on Booking.com or Vio.
Frequently Asked Questions
How Many Countries Are on Cyprus?
One internationally recognised state, the Republic of Cyprus. There is also the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, recognised only by Turkey, a UN buffer zone and two British Sovereign Base Areas.
Is Cyprus in the EU?
Yes, since 2004. EU law is suspended in the north pending a settlement.
Is Cyprus in NATO?
No. Accession needs unanimous member agreement, and Turkey has not supported it.
Is Cyprus in Schengen?
No. It is an EU member outside the Schengen area, so passport checks apply on arrival.
Can You Cross to the North?
Yes. Crossings operate and are routine, including on foot in Nicosia. Take a passport and check current requirements.
Why Does Britain Have Bases in Cyprus?
They were retained as a condition of independence in 1960. They remain British Overseas Territory under the Ministry of Defence.
Is It Safe to Visit?
Yes. Cyprus has among the lowest crime rates in Europe, and the situation has been stable for decades.
How Do I Visit Nicosia and the Buffer Zone?
Join a guided tour, or go independently and walk the old city yourself. The Ledra Street crossing is the easiest way to see both sides in one afternoon.
Final Thoughts
Cyprus is a small island carrying an unusually large amount of unresolved twentieth century history, and the division explains a great deal about how the place works, including why it sits outside Schengen and outside NATO. For a visitor it changes almost nothing day to day.